Seba Camp - Botswana - Sept 2013
Hayley is USA born and met Tim several years ago on a training camp there, they have been married five years and are in their early thirties. They have been at this camps only about 6 weeks, although in the Okavango Delta for six years. She is a striking, slender woman, easy in the company of others, a definite plus for this job. Tim was born in Cape Town, a charming bearded man with a relaxed manner, and the ability to make others feel that way. The staff here are exceptional, clearly hand picked, unfailingly smiling and courteous, ready to hug and kiss, holding my hand, and ready to provide whatever our hearts desire.
Our room is straight from Out of Africa - a huge bed, built on a platform, to make it easier to view the game whilst lying in bed, big windows with trapdoor like coverings which effectively close out the wind and the view for night, big leather chairs, colourful African artwork, the most charming bathroom lined in wood with brass fittings, big mirrors and cupboards. I am thrilled and Gerald cannot stop staring out at the water, so Zambian like is this view.
We unpack and return to the outdoor verandah for what they sweetly call 'High Tea' - and it is. A vast cheese cake, fresh fruit platters, varieties of tea, home made ginger beer, iced tea, coffee, gluten free banana muffins, gluten free vegetables coated in the lightest of batters and deep fried. So much trouble has been taken to ensure my dietary needs are take care of. The Chinese are enjoying it too, still wearing their suits, they are preparing to go off on safari with Joe. I fear he has a tough job ahead of him this afternoon.
Speedy, Gerald and I head out, how happy we are to be alone, and spend four incredible hours. What we really want to see is leopard, our appetites whetted by our earlier sighing - as it is the most elusive animal in Africa. We return to the spot we saw the leopard earlier, and drive around for a good half hour, when we smell something bad, a 'kill' - and then we find him - and not far off, his sister. Mum is not around. We are entranced. His face is covered with blood from a big feed, his stomach is bloated, and he is stretched out for a siesta. He raises one sleepy eye at the sound of the vehicle, and settles back down, not at all concerned. Speedy says they view the Landie as a big animal, and are now accustomed to it, knowing it is not a threat. Step outside however, and you become a two legged 'animal' - lunch. Yesterday, he says, he was in the camp and chased by a buffalo, who can weigh 700 kgs. He avoided being trampled to death by diving under House number six. So do not be fooled by how close you can get to the animals, they are wild. Speedy gently sees the Landie up even closer, I can see his chest heaving in the heat, he is licking his paws, I hear his stomach groan, he looks just like Whisper or Noodle, our grand-cats, lying there. Then his sister joins him, and we are entertained for an hour by their antics, playful batting of each other, his sister diligently cleaning the blood off his face, short naps, and five hundred photos later, we reluctantly leave, and as we do, we find the source of the bad smell, it's the kill, a huge kudu, which the Mum has provided for her babies, the cavity of its chest emptied of entrails, legs and ears broken off, hundreds of flies, and chunks of bloodied meat.
Ten minutes later, after travelling through flat land, many broken trees, short grassy areas, and now and then patches of water, we see two families of hyena. I have never liked this ugly animal with its powerful jaws and moth eaten coat. But here I see something I have never seen before - hyena puppies! So fluffy and adorable with huge yellow eyes, lying with their head between their outstretched front paws, just like Moët used to - I want to pick them up and hug them. And I could. They are right AT the vehicle, I could reach down and - well, get my arm bitten off I guess. They are biting at lithe tyres and speedy keeps banging the side of the door to ward them off, but they are not easily deterred. They are biting each others tails, rolling in the dust, playing like your every day puppy would, and their mothers stand some distance off, looking bored with the activities. 'Those kids' I can hear them say 'never a moments peace ...' We drag ourselves away, and in quick succession see red letchwe, Senegal Coucal, an aardvark, steenbok, the smallest of the antelope family, giraffe, feeding their faces on the fruit of the Sausage Tree, a delicious meal for them. We see zebra crossing, literally, crossing the airstrip, in an orderly line, impala, several elephant, at least twenty varieties of bird, including the red billed Francolin,and spurwing geese. It is close to sunset, and Speedy drives us over two bamboo styled narrow bridges,inches above the water, and parks under the spreading boughs of a Jackalberry tree, also,known as the African ebony tree He unloads a canvas esky, spreads a cloth on a small lift up 'table' on the front of the Landie and produces wine, gin and tonic, beers, biltong and nuts. The sun is setting, a massive blazing orange ball, sinking over this channel of the Okavango Delta. If I was eaten by a lion right now, I would die happy.
Thurs afternoon in Seba
things to add:
66 days in Africa - a journey home on pastor in Mowbray, we are born in same hospital
Dad works at uni doing ???
Two month in bush training cooking food no bath speedy
Blouse to Presh - naked
Water spiders like dragon flies
Speedy photographer
Smell of bush fire
Minus 6 in Doro Nawas
Omg the smell!
We glide through the water silently, a light breeze ruffling the reeds, we cannot see Speedy, in front of me is Gerald's broad back, the sun is merciless, there are small water spiders flitting across the surface of water, and every now and then, Boyusi points out an animal - two elephants on the bank, red lechwe creating a din crashing through the water, they have spotted us, and are wary, we get too close, and they charge off, half running, half swimming. Silence returns. This water has come here from Angola, and is now heading south, receding, and has brought with it the chance of new growth and new life, there are green shoots appearing, and the soil is fertile and black.
Boyusi wants to find the painted frog, a tiny creature, less than an inch long, who sits on the reeds, so as not to be eaten by the fish. How would you EVER find something that small in this vast expanse? But he does. His eyes are incredibly strong, and even when confronted with it, I find it hard to see, I have to put my glasses on. He goes to extraordinary lengths so that Gerald can photograph it, he has his long lens on and it is difficult to photograph that close. He breaks the reed off, intending to hand it to me, so we can place it on a 'lovely lily pad' he says, a kind of National Geographic shoot. But it jumps off. A does the second one, now I am calling it the Jumping Painted Frog, for some reason he finds this hilarious, and the boat rocks with his laughter. He has incredible balance to keep this Mokoro stable, all he has asked is that we do not move suddenly. He finds another tiny creature, solemnly hands me the reed on which it is sitting. I am being poled down the Okavonga Delta, holding a reed with a frog so small it can be scarcely seen, looking for a lovely lily pad on which to photograph this small VIP. And we do find a lily pad that meets Boyusi's stringent criteria, and do just that.
He sees two elephant on the horizon, which I cannot from my seated position, and he says I can stand up. I a hesitant. Gerald is a definite 'no'. I carefully stand up and find it quite stable. Gerald is being a pansy, not wanting to stand, but I realise he is very concerned for his precious camera and the 2000 photos in there, rather than fearful - and he ultra carefully stands to take the shot.
Speedy is waiting for us at the jeep, and we head off to the 'sundowner area' - the timing is impeccable, as is Speedy, who keeps all his revenue books in plastic bags and looks like he just stepped out of the shower even after a day in the Landie. A bumpy ten minute drive through thorn bush and scrub, and I suddenly see a camera hanging on a wooden pole - and shout out. Speedy retaliates with 'And there is the champagne!' Unbelievably, there is champagne. On a silver stand, in a silver ice bucket, and filled with ice, two glasses artfully attached with napery - and Speedy's camera. I think I am seeing things, but both guides are beaming, and I burst into tears, Speedy hugs me, then leaps to pop the cork, pour the bubbles, and take photos, just as the sun slips behind the horizon. There is a tiny hand written card acknowledging our 'forty something years of marriage from the Seba Team'. OMG. This gets more and more unbelievable.
We take lots of photos and exchange stories, I tell them about the big fat couple in the USA who made me wonder how they ever conceived kids. They both explode with laughter, and literally doubled over, run snorting into the bushes, clapping their thighs. Speedy is a religious man, a member of the Zion Christian Church, so I am pleased I have not offended him with my crass observation.
We return to the camp, it is dark and Boyushi has the spotlight which switches from white and red, the white spots the animals, and the red protects their eyes, so we can see them. Speedy wants to 'complete the story' of the leopards, and as we pass under a large tree, there is the little boy lying on a branch, sound asleep, legs hanging either side and his long tail dangling, but no sign of the rest of the family
as if the day has not been perfect enough, we arrive at camp to be met by Tizzard and Tim, with cloths and drinks, and are informed we will be served a romantic dinner in a secret location. My, my, my ...... We are led to an area, surrounded by candles in brown paper bags, glowing in the dark, where no less than four staff stand, their teeth flashing in the dark, and sing to us, complete with the ululating sounds the women make, I have goosebumps down my spine, the table is formally set and gleams, and for the second time in two hours, I cry, and do so off and on all night. The staff who know me only slightly look somewhat disturbed by this show of emotion, until gerald explains 'Many women cry when they are happy, my wife cries all the time!' They brwak into smiles with this. We are lavishly served the finest food and wine for the next two hours. They leave us discreetly, and disappear into the darkness, and cough politely before they return laden with more goodies. Tizzard magically appears to escort us back to our room, his slender arm firmly Round my waist, waving his torch before us. I am so happy - and so satiated on every level - I could die.
Our tented room is softly lit, and the covers turned back. The shower is hot and soothing. I turn off the overhead fan and all but one light, and with the sounds of Africa all around, we make perfect love.
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We head back to camp, it is dark, and the Landie slides through the sand, slipping from side to side, I nearly fall out. And after only one gin. We see lanterns in the gloom, and he suddenly turns. There by a blazing fire is a camp, complete with A dining table set for twelve, gleaming silver and polished glasses, white starched napery, flowers - FLOWERS! - a huge table with a tower of assorted alcoholic drinks, and Hayley and Tim, with a jug of hot water to wash our hands, a towel, and hand cream. I am dry, dusty, dirty, and am being treated like a queen, and I feel humbled, the tears threatening to flow, but I grin instead. Gerald already has a beer, the Chinese are well into their third or fourth judging by the merriment, seated on chairs around the fire Huang is still alive I am relieved to see, and Joe the guide looks frazzled, I am not surprised to see. I am speechless with the logistical effort of this undertaking. Each place setting comprises at least ten pieces of cutlery and four glasses. The meal is served some while later, by smiling staff, chefs in white hats, their skin glowing by lamplight, ice is clinking in tall glasses and the food is exceptional. Soup, fish, fillet, vegetables, wild rice, salads, banana flambé and other desserts and the wine is flowing. Huang is entertaining. She refuses to remove her backpack or her hat, tied around her neck on a string and hanging behind her, 'in case she has to run'. Gerald uses all his Chinese relationship skills learned on many trips to china with IBM and soon we are all friends, aided and abetted by wine, and they are toasting Gerald and I at every turn, for our marriage, for being African, for being here. Huang reminds us of Matt Preston on Master Chef. She fills her plate with everything, then slices pieces delicately, tasting each as if about to pass a verdict. She loudly declares she is unable to eat the meat, as it is raw, but says in China, they eat anything with four legs, just not tables and chairs.
The Chinese contingency leave after dinner, and we spend another contented hour with Tim, Hayley, Speedy and Joe, listening to amazing African stories, which I shall have to relate at another time. I visit a toilet, I mean a real toilet, a beautiful sophisticated, white porcelain toilet, with artwork, a flushing system, sweet smelling flowers and toilet paper rolls tied with little bows - !!! - down a dusty path, I find my way in the bush with a torch, and feel no fear. But perhaps that was also the wine. We are driven back to our beautiful house, and after showering the African dust off our tied and happy bodies, fall into our huge bed. Gerald snores like a train, the wind blows, and I do not sleep much, reliving all we have seen and done.
Friday in Seba continued
I write this as I sit at a dark wooden desk in front of the flap down window covered by mosquito screening. In font of me is a lagoon, and two,large elephants have just walked by, Gerald almost walked straight into one walking back to our tent, laden down with kit, and stopped dead lot take a series of photos. The pathway is spread with elephant dung, a new experiment, easier to walk on than sand. Maybe the elephant feels at ease here.
New guests, a family of seven have arrived, the cousin of Ian Khama, the president of Botswana, and the Seba Team have just sang them lithe welcome song. I would solove to get it on my phone, but have run out of space, I have to find time to delete something, josh says he has saved what I have sent him.
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The amphibian antelope is sitatunga
Red star apple is the root they use for toothbrushes or just blue bush
I nap for half an hour before getting our kit organised for the boat trip. Gerald is excited, he has wanted to get out in a boat since we arrived. The Delta is low, and in a week or so, it will be impossible to do so, at least until the rains come. The weather here as Tim says is predictable and perfect, highs of 30 degrees and the lows of 7 degrees (that would be winter)and cloudless blue sky, not a drop of rain, day after day, for nine months of the year, then the rains come, and it gets hotter.
The boat has a 60 HP engine the same size as ours at home Gerald tells me, and we head out in the channel, caused by hippos, the Hippo Highway says Speedy. This man, and the other guides here, are just grown up boys, loving their job, cannot wait to get out and fish, track animals, walk through the trees, share their information, tell stories. They are up latte at night hosting clients, and up at the crack of daw, preparing vehicles or boats, impatient to get out and have another day of fun in their 'office', the great outdoors. If only we could all love our jobs this way. Their passion is palpable and it is a joyful experience to be with them, they laugh so much. Speedy talk to the animals as I have done to Moët - 'come here big boy' and 'how are you today?' and 'don't be shy' and 'It's only Speedy back to see you again', and other such sweet endearments. I am charmed by him.
I take an umbrella, a large green one, the sun is blistering, and have an image of myself on the boat, Katherine Hepburn style in that old film 'The African Queen' with Humphrey Bogart Speaking of umbrellas, this morning we were told that the elephants, one called Asparagus in particular named because he has only one tusk, having lost the other in a fight, like to have a bit of fin, gently pick the large umbrellas up off the beach, and place them gently in the lagoon, no damage at all.
We are still in sight of camp when we spot a massive bull elephant on an island, both of his Turks broken off. He flaps his huge ears, he doesn't feel comfortable with us this close, and he is trapped on the island. I can count his eyelashes, his giant face creased with years of life, wise beyond words. Should he charge, Speedy has his hand on the motor, ready to accelerate. We gaze at each other intently, this whole area has been the site of a massive amount of work over many years to conserve elephants, the sister camp is called Abu, not far from here, where you can ride the African elephant. This area is responsible for conserving the lives of hundreds of elephants, some have come from as far away as Canada, and lithe animals are retrained in how to fend for,themselves in the wild, integrated into the herds, and released. The elephant is I think my most favourite animal, their behaviour so similar to ours with strong family ethics.
Gently heading off again, we spot the most brilliantly coloured bird, the Malachite Kingfisher, a small creature whose bright red beak is too large for its body, it surely must weigh more than the bird. Three giraffe on the shore of another island, a mum and two babies, posing like a studio shot with zebras behind them. I learn that a group of giraffe are called a 'tower' or a 'journey' - did you know that? Our hearts pump furiously, cutting through the long grass of the channels it is impossible to see what is ahead, all there is to see is a white bird, seemingly standing on the long golden grass. But no, as we bear left, it is standing on a giant water buffalo, who is impersonating a statue, hoping we don't see him. i am trying to impersonate a statue too, hoping he won't see me, and we stare each other down. Suddenly he jumps and my heart crashes in my chest, but he is heading away, jumping through the water like a giant dog chasing a ball. He weighs around 700 kg, about the same size and shape of my Honda Jazz at home, and is perhaps 20 m away. Gerald and I often exchange looks, our facial language has become quite sophisticated here when we so often have to be silent - surprised, relieved, appalled, amused, honoured, etc. This one is relief. He is a 'dagga boy', says Speedy, not dagga as in marijuana, but as in 'dark', and he now lives alone, he is too old to keep up with the travels of the herd, and has had to leave, or has been evicted by the younger bulls, as he is holding up the herd. Oh my, so it happens in the animal kingdom too.
We see birds, oh hundreds of birds, impish I could tell you them all Speedy identifies them, their habitat and characteristics so readily, Little Grebe, and the jacana, who is literally running across the top of the water, standing on water lily pads, and taking off again like some manic speed runner. We pass under the long bamboo bridge we drove across a couple of days ago where we had our first sundowner under the african ebony tree, a huge golden leaved tree with a gnarled trunk, so beautiful from the water, and there are a pod of six hippos, the most dangerous animal in Africa. Their ears and eyes barely visible, they sink silently without a trace, but Speedy tracks their progress along the floor of the lagoon by a trail of tell tale bubbles. When I was a likely in northern Rhodesia, my first boyfriend Alistair Hassal went fishing with his best mate, John Bench I think his name was. John's dad accompanied them, at a place called the Hippo Pool half way between what was then Bancroft (now Chililabombwe) and Chingola. Mr. Bench was bitten in half that afternoon by a giant hippo, who crunched their small boat, and he died instantly; those two teenage boys swam to shore with parts of his body. So I am very wary of this beasts with their teeth as big as table legs. They snort and spurt water, and another fascinating fact is that they belong to the same group of animal as the whale, who similarly spurt water. Who would have known that?
Now the serious stuff begins, and the men get out the rods. Speedy casts, and instantly brings in a pike. He casts again, and brings in a lovely silver bream, just right for his dinner. Gerald is having none of this, and is desperate to get something, and on his third cast, bingo, he brings in a big catfish. He casts again, and a second catfish, even bigger than the first obliges. Now the competition is on, and its fast and furious, cast after cast, with just a few 'vegetarian' meals of reeds, but its like these fish have been told to wait for us to come along, and then accommodate our desires to catch them by hopping on the hook. Speedy has caught more pike, and a catfish, Gerald snares another huge one, we can see it in the crystal water, but it bites the lure and makes off. The line gets entangled, Speedy skilfully poles the boat and undoes it, then selects a beautiful,lotus flower, and almost absent mindedly, begins to peel the stalk, methodically creating something. In a couple of minutes, he stands and says 'Sandra, I have made you a Delta Necklace' - and ties it around my neck. Is there no end to this man's skills? I expect him, like the jacana, to walk on water at any moment.
Gerald cannot stop grinning, I wish our son was here to share this wonderful experience, and I tell Speedy we may have to adopt him. We move gently and carefully past the hippos to a new spot, as the catfish 'know we are here and have chased off the others'. More fish arrive on board, neither want to kiss them before they release them, but they pose for photos, male bravado and camaraderie tangible. Oh I am loving this! The men jostle and joke about who is the winner, is it the number or is it the weight, bagging each other's prowess, the tally is seven fish to Speedy and five to Gerald. All in about forty minutes. Gerald is enjoying his first cold beer and a coppery tailed Coucal is making his 'hoo hoo' sound, the sun is beginning to sink low in the sky, and Speedy serves me an ice filled gin and tonic. Sigh.
Suddenly Speedy says 'SIT DOWN' (yes, in capitals) and instantly we do, a monster hippo is pursuing us. This man switches from sensitive, amusing, creative soul to focused life saver in a split second, and we are gunned by the motor out of harms way. The hippo sinks, just a trail of bubbles to be seen. I think another gin is called for. Speedy does not drink, it is part of his religion, but none of the guides do, for moments just like this one.
We begin our journey back to camp, past 'our tree' and under the bridge, a Landie is crossing over laden with the weeks supplies which just came in on the light aircraft we just saw overhead, and the guides call out to each other. Truly, a movie set, Joshua, you have to come here son. The 'pallum' (Speedy pronounces the silent 'l' in palm) trees glow gold in the final rays of the sun, we pass by the old Water Buff once more, further away but standing, old, majestic - and oh, now I know his story, such a lonely old man, what a heart wrenching sight - my eyes fill, he will die soon says Speedy. He guns the motor, we are flying through the hippo highway, reeds bending on either side, I cover my face with my scarf so as to avoid insects flying into my eyes, it is cool now and I have not brought our jackets. Gerald is so happy next to me. We stop to take photos, and he says 'I cannot remember having so much fun EVER in such a short space of time! I am soooooo glad we came!' As he wasn't that enrolled in this holiday when I first proposed it, (and for a long whole after) I am so delighted to hear this. I say, 'I either over ruled your objections or did a great job in enrolling you'. He says I over ruled his objections and he is happy I did.
The Mosquitos are beginning to have dinner on us, and getting back to camp, now lit with fire and lanterns is magical. A table set for twenty on the beach, a tower of drinks on a table, attentive staff, and the smell of delicious food await. Our laundry which we left this morning is laid out on the bed, African style, crisply ironed - hard working hands in the background, making every detail of our stay seamless.
We are invited to watch the movie The Easter Elephant' by Adrian Dundridge ? In the open air lounge, a first for Seba. The relatives of the president join us, Marcus and his wife their two small children, and her parents from the UK here on holidays. Marcus is a director of Wilderness camps, the big boss. I tell Tim about his relationship with Ian Khama, he is surprised, he did not know, and I see him quietly inform Hayley of this fact. There is a big bowl of popcorn, the kids watch attentively, and oh what a wonderful film, just fifty minutes long, a documentary about the life of an orphaned elephant, her resilience, and how she survived. I cry for half the film, Gerald has nodded off, I feel happy and safe and loved and overwhelmed, all at once. I recommend this film, I am now more in love with elephants, and think we will support this work.
Dinner is served, course after course, soup, fillet of beef, duck, vegetables. Salads, rice, sauces, desserts. My stomach has expanded, they have made special meals three times a day to accommodate my gluten free diet. There are three Americans here from Texas, two pilots and a nurse, who are travelling with a very wealthy oil man in his sixties, now disabled after a stroke, and his wife. They travel in their twelve seater plane, and are his permanent staff. As I said, wealthy, and are staying at Abu camp, the elephant conservation camp. These three are amusing, their ideas of Africa influenced solely by movies, and they are nervous of every sound, nervous to go out in the Mokoro, nervous to go to bed. Tim, Hayley and I talk, and as always happens when I am asked about my life, I share The Landmark Forum and how my life changed 26 years ago when I first participated. They ask many questions, listen avidly, and I direct them to an introduction on line. I suspect there are particular challenges in life and relationships living such an isolated and unique life out here in the wilderness, and I hope I have contributed something to them tonight. I like them very much.
We are walked to our tent by watchful staff with a torch, shower, there is a sweet note from them. "It has been a pleasure having you in our 'Little 'Paradise'. We believe that you have enjoyed your stay here with us. We are looking forward to welcome you back! Tsamaya Sewtle, The Seba Team. It is written on black board, in gold, and the seed from my childhood game is attached to the front. What thought goes into these tiny details. We shower and fall asleep by 11.30 pm, we are up again at 6 am.
Saturday 7th September 2013
This morning at 6 am there was a gentle knock on the door, and Tim crept in and placed a cup of tea on each of our bedside tables, like a thoughtful son, I was touched.
Now I am sitting alone in the tent as after 6.30 breakfast, Gerald and Speedy have gone fishing, there is a big competition happening between them, rather like it does with and Joshua. I miss our son. Yesterday was 'one for the history books' and he would have loved it, we laughed so much. The camp is empty, the birds are singing, the sun is casting shadows and reflections on the water just feet in front of me. This is truly paradise.
I am writing this blog at the desk, looking into the lagoon, the wind has come up, and there is a chill. Presh has brought me a large flask of boiling water for tea. I give her a silk scarf I think she will like, she is stylish, the one with the coiffed wig. I bought it in the South Pacific, as a gift, not knowing who it was for, a compelling thought to buy it, and now I know it was meant for her, although I had not even met her when I purchased it. It is in a small chiffon bag and it is very fine - the red, blue and white, and will be a riot of colour against her dark skin. Her eyes widen when I give it to her, and she claps her hand to her mouth. She opens it as if it were the wrappings on a new born baby, and ties it around her neck. She is emotional and hugs me, saying 'bless bless bless'. Then, 'Can you be my mother?' I cry too, oh yes, I can, I so want to be! She is 34 and is a trainee, (clearly a fine one) and only at this camp one week, she was previously at Abu. She says 'I will miss you', and I have no reason to disbelieve her. I will miss her too.
We will find out the time of our departure this morning, but I could stay here forever in this peaceful, tranquil place, and write write write. Last night at dinner, I was introduced as a 'writer'. Am I? I guess so. I liked that very much. Perhaps this is the start of my book, perhaps I needed to return to my homeland to discover this newly, this idea which has been sitting in the recesses of my mind, one that has been there at least fifty years, of writing a book.