Day 14 - Leaving Hue for Saigon - 20th September 2
Leaving Hue for Saigon - Day 14 - 20th September 2014 - Saturday
I wake to ths sound of the door banging and the bathroom light shining out into the still dark room, Gerald has gone for a swim. It's peaceful and quiet and it's a luxury to lie here quietly, the room has perfect air conditioning, just a chill in the air which makes snuggling under a light doona comforting. I lie and doze and rise to make tea and check my FB. I walk through delightful steamy tropical gardens to the restaurant, a wooden double storey building, where the herd are already feeding and engaged in loud conversations. The breakfast bar is a delight, a colourful array of fruit, I love the jackfruit, and a grand selection of pho, dozens of small bowls with a selection of sauces and herbs and chilli, like a painting where the artist has gone wild with his palette. Also all the stuff the herd like, the Aussie bacon and eggs and toasts and pastries and then the European selection of cheeses, rye breads and rolls and ham. I feast on fruit and pho, and choose a couple of rolls and two boiled eggs, and some cheese. I have deduced we won't be eating till tonight, and am hungry after not eating last night.
People leave and I am largely alone which I appreciate, and I head to the Sloping Pool, the biggest pool I have seen, 45 or 50 metres of pale grey granite, and here I go again, one of the loveliest. At one end, in the distance, is a Buddha, with shelves of slowly pouring water, and beneath this statue and just under water level, are three cleverly designed, and barely visible pebble stone chaise lounges. I swim the length of the pool and cannot wait to lie on the, they are sculpted to fit the body, and the water caresses my body like velvet. Surrounded by a virtual forest of bamboo and thinking waterfalls and exquisite sculptures, lined with white umbrellas and chaise lounges, this is another place I could spend a month at, sitting here in the dappled shade, swimming in this blood warm water, and writing.
I see Laurie and Trish in the pool, she says to him, 'Let's ask Sandra' - the question is when did I let my hair go grey, she is 61 and thinks it may be time. They say that there are some of the herd in their rooms watching Kojak, without a trace of irony, and I hear him say he has the series of ??? - some skeet and donner show. What the????? Here we are in this exquisite place and they are watching KOJAK???
I write and take photos, I have an hour before we have to meet in reception, and the quiet is a tonic for me. I know I must have solitude from time to time to nurture my soul and my spirit, to reflect and to dream, and I have missed this sorely. There is great wisdom to be found in solitude I believe. In the quiet moments I have my highest thoughts and always feel renewed. At home, this is my walk each day on the beach with Cino, the sand under my feet, and the wind and the sun and the sea, which replenishes and restores.
A quick shower and pack up, my beloved has already put the big bags out for collection - we have not needed to open them, using only the small carry on roller bag. On to the bus at 11 am and a twenty minute drive to the airport, Gerald collects 5,000 dong from each couple, about $2.50, and once more makes a generous acknowledgement of Van, who will not be travelling to Saigon with us. Check in is simple and we have the chance to cruise the few shops. I find a pair of ilk and cotton black pants for $11. - 220,000 dong from a charming lady. In another shop I find wonderful,orange pants and tops, also a cotton and silk mix, also for $11, but their one size only is tiny, so I have to decline. On the bus to the plane, I spy a baby and coo at it, the grandmother holding it thrusts it into my arms, the dearest little thing, he is 'one and half month old' she says, and a boy. I gaze into his tiny face, his steady eyes, and my heart thumps in my chest.
Am writing this on the plane to Saigon, 1.5 hours flight from Hue. Arriving in saigon is seamless, we are off the plane and into a waiting business minutes, Ashley and Kathrine arrive last and red faced, and I ask some young Vietnamese to give up their seats, all of a sudden, several seats are vacated, a flurry of good manners - and Kathrine who I know realise is my biggest fan, acknowledges me once more, and calls me her guardian angel, 'always doing things for everyone else'. How sweet is that.
Exiting from arrivals, a smiling small man holding the Travel Marvel sign greets us, his energy cracklings he is a character, telling jokes, singing 'I can't help falling in love with you' as he leads a lady off the bus, he is very organised, smart, and a delight. We get our room keys on the bus!! We are in room 2008, something now imprinted on my brain, after I tried unsuccessfully to get into room 2007 with my key, and was knocking impatiently on the door, wondering what the hell Gerald was doing in there. A sympathetic bell boy, clad in red livery, with a pill box hat, assisted me to use the phone to call the desk to find out my room number. I say assisted, as he instructed me to call reception on the phone in the hall. But as I didn't have my glasses, as had just been for a swim, he had to find the number and dial for me. Doh. I think I may be heading towards Old Fart territory.
This Grand Hotel in the heart of District 1 in Saigon was built in 1930, and is grand in every respect. The scale of the building and the rooms, the wide marble foyer with gilt pillars, the red liveried bell boys, the attentive staff who snap to attention, all dressed formally in black and white, the furnishings are sumptuous and there is a woman tinkling a grand piano, looking upwards I see terraces frescoed and with wrought iron railings, it reeks of luxury, privilege and mega money. And I am here for two days and nights!!! Our room is large, filled with desk wood and polished wooden floors, inlaid tiling in the entrance and bathroom, old finished high quality fittings, and two double beds, covered with white pillows and emblazoned with Grand Hotel Saigon. Lest you should think you could take home a few souvenirs, there is a list in the desk of every item In the room and a price, should you 'have consideration for them as souvenir or compensation in case of damages'. For example, the Tivi LCD 32" screen TV is 6,500,000 dong, so I won't be packing that t with the shampoo and body lotion. The outdoor swimming pool 'bringing the joy of swimming or sunbathing not just a regular activity, but a pleasure' is located on level 1 in case you are in town. There is a full page in the directory devoted to the use of the kettle, primarily so you don't burn down this historic building,and advice in what to do when 'discovering an explosion'. And importantly, a list of what is not allowed in this regal place:
a) animals b) unhygienic objects, those with a bad smelling c) inflammable or explosive objects, gasoline and lubricant d) fire-arms without permit e) bulky furniture f) objects with toxicity, radio active substances and forbidden goods
I am relieved I have brought my fire arm permit with me, that we left Cino and the dining room table at home, and have only coconut oil as my preferred form of lubricant. As for the unhygienic objects, 'those with a bad smelling' - I hope they don't discover my walking shoes.
We have a swim in the charming old fashioned pool, much cooler water than my husband is accustomed to, but he is adapting! A shower, and the. We head off to the bar on the 20th floor, with stunning views over the city and the Mekong River. Smokers disrupt the experience, but we sit there taking in the view and the joy of being in such a wonderful place with each other. We predict Saigon will be like Hong Kong or Shanghai very soon. It buzzes with energy, is elegant, stylish and sophisticated, the old buildings preserved, the new buildings of stunning architecture, the people well dressed, the shops filled with quality merchandise.
We meet the group in the lobby at 7pm, now the group has expanded, we have gone from 24 to about 60, and tomorrow another ten will join us. Eeeek. We walk to the Phuoc Thanh Restaurant a few minutes away, guided ably by three young men in white t shirts from the restaurant, across busy streets, we have been warned about opportunistic thieves and are mindful. I do not like being in a group, nor being herded, but I think I made that plain earlier.
The meal is absolutely delicious, which makes up for the awful meal last night, and we have a happy meal with Carol and Steve, Geoff and Betty. The two glasses of wine I had on the 20th floor make listening to her endless chatter easier, I even manage to get a story or two of my own in, I am in good form, people are roaring with laughter, and I am told I look gorgeous, in my 50th birthday dress, my favourite 15 year old animal print happy dress.
We are back in the room by 9.45 pm, and now I am ready for bed, we sleep one in a bed tonight, Gerald wants to share, but it looks so small for two. He is snoring as I write this and bid you good night.